Las Olas y El Sol
"How was it out there?" I asked as I pulled my 9'2'' longboard out of the back of my Subaru.
"I got a few good ones. Nothing spectacular but it's such a nice day it's just good to be out there." the guy said longboard under his arm with the leash dragging behind him. I noticed the wetsuit tan on his neck as he passed me. Most likely a result of long days out on the water in the beautiful 75 degree and sunny weather we've been having for the past month.
I laid my board on the grass as I went through the routine of putting on my wetsuit. I perfected the towel wrapped around the waist change years ago. I noticed the crisp dryness to my wetsuit as I slipped my first foot through the leg. Immediately I felt shame for not having surfed in so long.
I grabbed the partially melted wax and gave the topside of my board a quick rub down. I noticed that the accumulated wax was getting thick and probably needs to be scraped off soon.
I locked up the car and headed down the beach to paddle out. The parking lot is full of old washed-up surfers hanging around the back of their old vans and VW buses. Each surf car has a unique character to it telling a story about the owner in it's own way. There's the newer VW vanagon with the built in custom wood surf racks. Probably a successful ex-hippy who can afford the modern day surf luxuries. He's parked next to the beat up old Chevy van hatch up with Mexican blankets and beads hanging out of the back. A scruffy dog sits on the Mexican blanket and gives a mean look to each passerby. These two have different lives but probably live for the same thing...las olas y el sol en San Diego.
I finally made it to the beach and took a look at the horizen. There were several dozen surfers bobbing up and down waiting for the right wave to come to them. I put my leash around my left foot and waded out into the shore.
"I got a few good ones. Nothing spectacular but it's such a nice day it's just good to be out there." the guy said longboard under his arm with the leash dragging behind him. I noticed the wetsuit tan on his neck as he passed me. Most likely a result of long days out on the water in the beautiful 75 degree and sunny weather we've been having for the past month.
I laid my board on the grass as I went through the routine of putting on my wetsuit. I perfected the towel wrapped around the waist change years ago. I noticed the crisp dryness to my wetsuit as I slipped my first foot through the leg. Immediately I felt shame for not having surfed in so long.
I grabbed the partially melted wax and gave the topside of my board a quick rub down. I noticed that the accumulated wax was getting thick and probably needs to be scraped off soon.
I locked up the car and headed down the beach to paddle out. The parking lot is full of old washed-up surfers hanging around the back of their old vans and VW buses. Each surf car has a unique character to it telling a story about the owner in it's own way. There's the newer VW vanagon with the built in custom wood surf racks. Probably a successful ex-hippy who can afford the modern day surf luxuries. He's parked next to the beat up old Chevy van hatch up with Mexican blankets and beads hanging out of the back. A scruffy dog sits on the Mexican blanket and gives a mean look to each passerby. These two have different lives but probably live for the same thing...las olas y el sol en San Diego.
I finally made it to the beach and took a look at the horizen. There were several dozen surfers bobbing up and down waiting for the right wave to come to them. I put my leash around my left foot and waded out into the shore.